Dansan: Pure Gold in Golden Gai, Tokyo

Golden Gai and Dansan

Tiny alleyways of Golden Gai

Originally a den of iniquity when the American soldiers were stationed in Tokyo, I got the impression that Golden Gai is not really on the tourist trail (even though it was in the Lonely Planet) - there were no gaijen (foreigners) on the streets at all.  The tiny alleyways are lined with even tinier bars (around 200) that seat around eight patrons if you're lucky and most of them have their doors firmly closed, or the bar(wo)man gives you a subtle shake of the head as you walk passed.  

Sneak peak into Golden Gai bars

Members only

We were feeling down right intimidated about walking into any of them for a drink until Sander noticed a poster of a rugby team at the foot of a steep staircase.  Ah ha!  If we were going to be welcome anywhere, it was going to be here.

Rugby memorabilia at the foot of the stairs

Sure enough, after some incredibly surprised looks, once we explained we were from New Zealand we knew we were home.

Dansan interior

Dansan is the home bar for the Suntory rugby team in Tokyo (explaining the multitude of Suntory business cards tacked to a small section of the wall) and it's patrons are extremely passionate about the game.  We settled in for a few beers and as curiosity got the better of the locals and the bar staff we became included conversation (albeit a little confused or stilted at times - lost in translation).

Sake from a small wooden cup - it's good luck to overfill the sake glass into the cup

By the end of the evening the Rugby World Cup had been dissected (as had a bottle of sake), Sander had been sketched twice and had the address of the bar to send a rugby memorabilia book once we were back in Singapore (which we have since sent).   We staggered home feeling very lucky to have stumbled across such a hidden jewel.

The artist

Portrait 1:  Frosty Boy - inspired by Sander's t-shirt

Portrait 2:  Sander's portrait - signed, dated (note: 1.05am) and tacked to the ceiling
(hopefully it's still there next time we visit)

The Dansan Team