In Flanders Fields

In Flanders Fields the poppies blow

Between the crosses row on row

That mark our place; and in the sky

The larks, still bravely singing, fly

Scarce heard amid the guns below.

A year and a half ago we paid a visit to the D-Day Beaches and military cemeteries in Normandy (an incredible trip).  This year we decided to visit Tyne Cot Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery and Memorial to the Missing, the largest WWI Commonwealth grave site just out of Passenale, a short day trip from Holland where we were staying.

Tyne Cot is a beautifully kept area on top of a peaceful rolling hill.  When we were there it was surrounded by fields of beautiful purple flowers (not lavender), and the graves are dotted with vibrant red roses.  It's hard to believe it was in the middle of year after year of bloody trench warfare.

We also visited the In Flanders Fields Museum in Ypres which has recently reopened after extensive renovation.  The museum chronicles the build up to WWI right the way through to the end of WWII with an amazing mixture of multimedia interactive displays - videos, audio, exhibits, photos.  One of the most memorable items was a video of actors playing soldiers from a number of countries retelling how the soldiers from both sides of the trenches put aside their differences to celebrate Christmas Day together.


If you're within driving distance, I'd highly recommend a visit to both places.

In Flanders Field Museum

In Flanders Fields Museum
Cloth Hall, Grote Markt 34, B 8900 Ypres
+32 57 239 220

A Week in Seminyak, Bali

The scene was set almost a year in advance:  five girlfriends from Uni days flying in from New Zealand, Australia, Singapore and London for seven days in Bali of birthday celebrations. The agenda:  relaxation, eating, reading, shopping a few activities and a surprise hen's day.

We'd debated numerous locations, but settled on Bali to do being centrally located (yes, I totally lucked out on ease of access) and flexible to accommodate the five of us who are dotted along the scale of activities vs reading on the sun lounger for what makes up an ideal holiday.  Armed with emails full of recommendations and a little firsthand experience from me, we got stuck in.


Our villa was simply amazing. Right off the bat we were exceeding our expectations. Over 48 hours all five of us converged on Seminyak, some of us with two suitcases (ok, she had come via a previous week's holiday in Fiji) and some of us with carry on (always my personal challenge). Our days fell into a regular pattern: wake up early (jet lag from AU/NZ), walk along the beach in search of coffee, breakfast either at the villa (um, yes, personal chef - sigh) or at a cafe, reading in the sun and swimming, head off for a light lunch, some sort of activity/exploring, evening drinks at the villa before heading out for dinner.

Our home away from home

One item high on our agenda was shopping. There's a huge amount of wholesale manufacturing done in Bali (or Indonesia generally) ranging from clothing and leather goods to furniture. Our trusty recommendations included where to go to get handbags, clutches and shoes made. Often these shops have pre-made items to be purchased, but if you bring in a picture of what you want it's very easy to do. A few tips - bargain hard, organize collection for a day or two before you depart in case last minute adjustments need to be made.

The girls decided to do a day trip to Ubud. As I'd been before (read about it here), I met up with a friend who is based in Bali and went for a surfing lesson at the Rip Curl Academy. Having not touched a surf board for well over ten years (ok, maybe closer to 15...) I knew I wouldn't last long in the water. I was right - after an hour I was utterly exhausted and completely exhilarated. If only there was surf in Singapore... The friend who I was surfing with happens to be one of the world champions of Stand Up Paddle Boarding, and one look at her (yes, totally fit) and how easily she picked up surfing, I think I'm going to give it a go. Anyway, I digress.

Our beach

One of the highlights was our surprise hen's day for Katie. She's getting married in October in NZ, but as we are scattered over the world this was the one time we would all be together before the wedding - an opportunity too good to pass up. Knowing Katie wasn't really the 'order a stripper' kind of girl (thank god - trying to find one in Bali would have been interesting!!) we settled on a hen's breakfast, a cooking class and cocktails, all accompanied by Matieus, a rather large and sculptured wooden penis bottle opener. Matieus proved to be absolutely useless at his task (ok, I'm avoiding the obvious joke here) of opening bottles, but he did cause a moment of hilarity at the security bag check at Potato Head.

The cooking class was a brilliant way to learn about and indulge in Indonesia's incredible cuisine. It was rather too hands off for me (we didn't do much ourselves other than grinding paste, threading skewers and stirring woks) but the feast (literally, we were groaning) was delicious and made the whole thing worthwhile. We also came away with our own recipe book and glossary of Indonesian ingredients to recreate the masterpiece at home.

Before

During

After

One fabulous afternoon road trip we had was to Ulawatu via Padang Padang beach. We'd intended to go to the Mother Temple, but our driver (thankfully) pointed out we'd left our start way too late and our supposed two hour journey would take four...each way. We placed ourselves in his trusty hands and he took us on our own tour. Padang Padang Beach was made famous by Julia Roberts in Eat Pray Love – a tiny little beach down through a stone-stepped tunnel. After stopping for a quick dip and some delicious charred corn on the cob, we headed off to Ulawatu (both temple and surf haven). We quenched our thirst with beer and fresh coconut water at the Hard Rock Cafe – no restaurant chain, but a wooden beach bar literally perched on top of an isolated rocky outcrop where we had a perfect view of surfers catching wave after wave (and me silently despairing of ever being good enough to surf there). 

On the way to Padang Padang Beach

The Hard Rock Cafe, perched at the cliff edge

View from the Hard Rock

I have size envy...

Feeling refreshed (and inspired) we headed to the Ulawatu Temple as the sun started to dip in the sky. I was hoping to catch the sun set, but the resident monkeys are seriously aggressive - they actually chased us with bared teeth!

He looks harmless, for now...

Lone fisherman

Approaching sunset

Ulawatu Temple

Bali is the perfect place to go if you want a little bit of everything for everyone.  You can stick to the high end, drink decadent cocktails, shop till you drop and brunch like you would back home, or you can eat local, laze on the beach or explore the winding back streets.  You can jump in a car or on a motorbike and drive from the beach into the rice paddies in a few hours, or you can soak up the sun pool-side and ask the masseurs to come to you.  Or you can do it all!


Here are a few of my recommendations:

Sleep:

VILLA SURATI


This place is a little slice of peace amongst the hustle and bustle of the Seminyak Streets. It's off Jl. Double Six (so not right in Seminyak) but is a five minute walk to Double Six Beach (Cocoon, Ripcurl Surfing School, Warung Asia).  We started almost every day with a 20 minute walk down the beach towards Seminyak.

Jln Double 6, Legian, Bali 80361
Email: enquiries@villasurati.com
Website: www.villasurati.com

Villa Surati I

Eat:

High end

SARONG

If you're not on a 'high end' budget, make an exception for this place just once.  The food is incredible Asian fusion, the staff are the perfect level of attentive but discrete, it's been nominated among top five Asian restaurants, tipped by Conde Naste... do you need any other reasons?  Book ahead a week in advance and don't miss the chicken betel leaf with flat leaf coriander, lime leaf and roasted chili capsicum relish - amazing!


Jalan Petitenget, Kerobokan Kelod, Indonesia
+62 361 737809

Mid range

MOJO'S FLYING BURRITOS


Mojo's can be hard to find but it's worth the effort.  Incredibly laid back, this tiny joint can offer you a brief respite from Indonesian food (if you need it).  I recommend building your own burrito - delicious.

Jl Petitenget ,Gang Prana, Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia

  

Build your own burrito

ZULA VEGETARIAN PARADISE

The raw chocolate brownie with coconut ice cream is not to be missed

Jl Dhyana Pura 5, Seminyak

Heaven by the spoonful

NAUGHTY NURIS

This place oozes attitude.  Take your patience along with you - you may have to queue, but it is so worth it.  Don't be tempted by anything else on the menu, order the ribs.  They're what Naughty Nuris is famous for!

Jalan Batubelig, 41 (Kerobokan Kelod, Kuta, Bali)
+62 361 847 6722

Low end

WARUNG ASIA


Our trusty local, just down the road from our villa.  Cheap, cheerful and quick.  
50m down from Jalan Arjuna intersection on Jalan Werkudara, tucked down a small laneway.  Look for the signs on Jalan Arjuna.

Lemongrass and ginger tea

Satay ayam

Gado gado - my favourite!

CABE RAWIT

We stumbled across this this place in a haze of hunger half way through our shopping marathon.  We weren't expecting much, but this place packs a punch.  The food was delicious!

Jalan Kuntil 1 No. 7, Seminyak

Don't forget fresh coconuts and char grilled corn on the cob from any number of street vendors!

Brunch

CAFE ZUCCHINI


You could come here for breakfast, lunch or dinner (we nearly did all three!) or pop in and rest your weary dusty feet for an icy fresh fruit smoothie.

Jl Laksmana 37, Seminyak, Bali
+62 361 736633 ‎

  

GROCER & GRIND

Step into Grocery & Grind and you could be in any fabulous cafe in New Zealand (or Australia). Stop here for coffee at least, and if you're feeling hungry try the porridge or a delicious smoothie.


Jl. Kayu Jati No.3 Petitenget, Seminyak, Bali

+62 361 730418

Drink:


Apart from anywhere serving cold Bintan, check out these places.

POTATO HEAD

Sip amazing cocktails reclined on full sized day beds scattered around the pool.  Be warned, the cocktail list is extensive - good luck on making a decision!

Jl. Petitenget Seminyak Kuta Badung Bali, Indonesia
+62 361 737979

KU DE TA

The perfect venue for evening cocktails perched right above the beach.  You'd probably need to book for the restaurant, but then you'd miss the fabulous view.  Try to get a seat at the very edge and order from the bar menu - the pizzas are really good.


Jalan Hotel The Oberoi  Indonesia

+62 361 736969

COCOON

Just down the road from our villa, Cocoon is a great place to relax with a few tapas and and G&T.

Jl. Double Six, Blue Ocean Terrace Seminyak,Kuta  80361, Indonesia

+62 361 731266

Do:

RIPCURL SCHOOL OF SURF


Surfing lessons

http://www.ripcurlschoolofsurf.com/

Day trip to Padang Padang / Uluwatu – ask your villa/hotel to organise a driver

ANIKA GUEST HOUSE


Balinese Cooking Class
Jalan Elang No. 3, Komplek Burung, Kuta, Tuban

Ph: +62 361 766133

Email: cookingclass@anikaguesthouse.com

http://cookingclass.anikaguesthouse.com


Shop:


Bali has fabulous shopping because so many labels are manufactured there.  By far the best street for shopping in Bali is Jalan Kayu Aya / Jalan Laksmana (same same).  You won't find a huge amount if you're a bargain basement shopper - prices are similar to Singapore or a bit cheaper than New Zealand but there's an incredible variety.  You'll find casual cottons, fine silks, kids clothes, leather goods... Give yourself the whole day, start with brunch at Grocer & Grind, work your way up to Cafe Zucchini for an icy smoothie or a coffee and rest your weary feet at the Corner Store for a cold drink and a snack.


Don't miss SKS and Prisoners of St Petersburg, both near the Corner Store end of the street.


LISAS


Come here for anything leather - bags, shoes, jackets, wallets.  They have a pretty good ready made selection, but they can whip anything up for you from a picture.  The more details you can give them, the better the finished product will be. 


Jl. Werkudara 17-18-19, Legian Kaja, Kuta, Bali
+62 87 862 106 811


AURA

Another great selection of ready made shoes, bags, belts, plus made to order.  I didn't get anything made here, but there were quite a few satisfied customers walking out with their goodies while I was um-ing and ah-ing over cute mouse purses and clutches.

Jl. Laksamana (Oberoi) No 21, Seminyak, Bali
+62 361 737 127

Review: Lagnaa Barefoot Dining

Wandering around Little India on a Sunday evening is a fascinating activity in Singapore.  The small streets are packed shoulder to shoulder with people and make for excellent people watching.  A few weekends ago Caro and I wandered passed Lagnaa which was packed with people so we decided to come back and check it out.

At first impressions, this place has a sense of humour.  There is a small blackboard at the entrance saying “slave labour needed”, the walls are covered with messages and there is a spice-o-meter at the entrance.  We weren’t really after a feast (wow, what restraint!) so we shared a green-curry chicken tika and a prawn marsala – both delicious.  The service was great – not over the top like Singapore service so often is, and there was no problem with making our mango lassi’s with “less sweet” so we didn’t feel like we were having dessert before our dinner.

The unique thing about this place is that once you have dined there you are invited to place your name and phone number on the blackboard and once a month a group text message goes out for a free 10-dish tasting for the first five people to correctly answer the question (you can bring a friend).  What a great idea!  I’m usually loathe to hand over my details because of the excessive mobile advertising which spams you in Singapore, but I was totally willing to in this situation – it’s all about the incentive.

I must remember to check out whether this place is recommended in Lonely Planet because it was pretty full of tourists (not always a plus in my book).  Pricing-wise it was middle of the road at $25 each for two mains a mango lassi and water each.  I’m not convinced it was better than the Banana Leaf (review here) but if you’re looking to try somewhere new in Little India it’s worth a shot.

Lagnaa

No. 6, Upper Dickson Road (the Serengoon Road end)

Singapore 207466

+65 6296 1215

You're Never Too Old for a Birthday Cake

You're never too old for a decorated birthday cake!

Like so many New Zealand children, I have vivid memories of leafing through the Women's Weekly birthday cake book as my birthday approached to select my masterpiece for the year (or rather my Mum's masterpiece).  I'm pretty sure with three girls Mum made it right the way through the book several times.

With Sander's birthday on the weekend I decided to have a go at creating my own 'masterpiece', and as he is obsessed with golf (he was playing when I was deciding what to bake), the '29th Tee' seemed appropriate.

The banana cake itself was delicious - very moist from the bananas and yoghurt, with a surprise chocolate chip and walnut layer in the middle.  I think my putter-making skills need a bit of work though!

Sander's 29th Tee birthday cake

Click here for the recipe at Epicurious but here is my version with a few substitutions:

Ingredients:

• 1 3/4 C all-purpose white flour
• 1/2 C whole wheat flour
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 113g unsalted butter, softened, plus 2 tablespoons, melted and cooled
• 2/3 C light brown sugar
• 1/3 C dark brown sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 1 1/4 cups mashed very ripe bananas (about 3 medium)
• 2/3 cup natural unsweetened yogurt
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 2/3 C cocoa nibs
• 1 cup walnuts , toasted , cooled, and coarsely chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 180°C with rack in middle. Butter a round cake pan.
2. Stir together flour, baking soda, and salt.
3. Beat together softened butter  and 3/4 cup sugar in a medium bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed until pale and fluffy, then beat in eggs 1 at a time until blended. Beat in bananas, yogurt, and vanilla (mixture will look curdled).
4. By hand (or with mixer on low speed), add flour mixture and mix until just incorporated.
5. Toss together chocolate, nuts, cinnamon, melted butter, and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a small bowl. Spread half of banana batter in cake pan and sprinkle with half of chocolate mixture. Spread remaining batter evenly over filling and sprinkle remaining chocolate mixture on top.
6. Bake until cake is golden and a wooden pick inserted in center of cake comes out clean (start checking at 30 minutes), 35 to 40 minutes. Cool cake in pan on a rack 30 minutes, then turn out onto rack and cool completely, right side up.

To make the green coconut:

1. Pour dessicated coconut into a ziplock bag or plastic Tupperware container
2. Add a few drops of green food colouring and shake to distribute
3. Continue adding food colouring a few drops at a time until the coconut is green enough

To make the icing:

1. Melt about 50g of butter in a small bowl
2. Add some lemon zest (about 1/4t - more if you like) and given the lemon a squeeze
3. Slowly add sifted icing sugar, mixing, until the icing is firm
4. Add more lemon juice/zest/icing sugar to taste
5. Spread icing on cooled cake with a hot knife and sprinkle coconut on top

Enjoy!

July 30-Day Challenge: A Month Without Caffeine?

Coffee... that wonderful, wonderful legal stimulant.  

Coffee has an almost ritualistic place in my life.  I come alive in the morning with the smell of it brewing, I down a chilled one before heading to boot camp sessions, it’s a reason to get up from my desk and stretch my legs, or a crutch after not enough sleep and it’s an endless search for a decent cup in Singapore.  You can imagine my trepidation about going without it for a month – it’s not as simple as just switching to decaf, because that still contains caffeine, just a lot less.

Turns out I was completely over dramatising my caffeine dependence as I haven’t had the expected headaches and I’ve managed to get through hangovers, jet lag and going back to work with surprising ease.  I do miss the taste of coffee, the ritual aspect, and how comforting a strong, milky cup of tea can be.  I’ve been substituting in herbal tea – green, peppermint or fresh mint, rooibos with milk and current fav ginger and lemon with a bit of honey (I have a sore throat).

With two weeks to go, I have plenty of time to try new flavours – any suggestions?  I’d love a real ‘pick me up’ combo to have in the mornings with breakfast.

What challenge are you doing for July?