Saturday, October 22, 2011

Review: Quirky Cool Cocotte - Really Good. Almost.

My first impression of Cocotte was formed well before I walked in the door.  I'd heard great things about the Wunderlust Hotel and it's flagship restaurant, a beacon of flair tucked away amongst the vegetable stalls and backpacker watering holes in Little India.  Consequently, expectations were high and Cocotte lived up to them.  Almost.

The contrast between the street outside and the restaurant within smacks you in the face as you walk in the door.  This place looks cool.  Three old dentists chairs greet you in the hallway and ahead you get a sneak peek at the modern-industrial-French-countryside-bistro interior of the restaurant.  We're talking purple and white gingham checked napkins and bright yellow lacquered metal chairs, wooden wine box storage cabinets and neon signage.  Brilliant!







When we sat down a few of the 'almost' factors began to rear their ugly heads.  Firstly we had to request additional menus for the table - we were provided with two for a table of six.  Secondly, corkage.  Yes, Cocotte is BYOW but why bother when corkage is $30 per bottle?

[Running count - 2 'almost' factors]

We ordered our appetisers - a pickled anchovy and tomato salad, escargot pastries, a pear, rocket and blue cheese salad, and three onion and anchovy tarts.  The three unique entrees were delivered first.  We all admired the presentation of the escargot while we waited for the tarts to arrive.  The grumbling over our wait escalated as the escargot cooled, and eventually someone arrived to inform us that "the tarts were not to the satisfaction of the chef and could we please choose another entree?"  It's great to have high standards for your food, but why deliver half the entrees before informing us?  Three additional pear salads were ordered and proved a rather disappointing choice - more of a side dish or a menu lengthener than appetising.  My pickled anchovy salad was nice, nothing amazing, but nice.

[Running count - 4 'almost' factors]

Fabulously presented but rapidly cooling escargot


Just when I thought the entree service couldn't sink any lower, my pet hate of hospitality service came to the fore.  Almost all our plates were cleared before we had finished eating.  I say almost because, as this is my pet hate, I refuse to let anyone clear by plate while one of my dining companions is still eating.  This practice drives me absolutely nuts and I simply cannot understand why the absolute basics of Service 101 are continually flouted - especially in Singapore.

[Running count - 5 'almost' factors]

I crossed my fingers that the mains would improve my opinion.  They did.

Three fabulous pan-seared sea bass emerged at exactly the same time as a wooden board of marinated roast chicken to be shared by two.  The boeuf bourguignon was declared "good" and disappeared quickly.

Sea bass

By now I was really quite full, but intrigued by the sound of 'Strawberry and Lavender Sorbet' so ordered a ball. The sorbet was right up there with the best I have tasted.  The lavender was incredibly fragrant, wafting off the spoon, and the taste was summer in a mouthful.  Sander had lined up the Chocolate Royal while browsing the menu on line.  It was ordered with six spoons and proved dark, rich and quickly devoured.





So would I recommend Cocotte?  Yes, absolutely. It's cool, quirky, the food is good (not great, aside from the sorbet), portions generous and the patronage as culturally diverse as Singapore itself.  Just don't expect anything more than standard Singapore-restaurant service and be somewhat picky from the menu.

Oh, and request a table far from the bathroom - the absence of a door means that diners look into other patrons washing their hands, and touching up their lipstick in the mirror.  Not exactly charming.

[Running count - 6 'almost' factors]

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