Tuesday, July 31, 2012

A Week in Seminyak, Bali

The scene was set almost a year in advance:  five girlfriends from Uni days flying in from New Zealand, Australia, Singapore and London for seven days in Bali of birthday celebrations. The agenda:  relaxation, eating, reading, shopping a few activities and a surprise hen's day.



We'd debated numerous locations, but settled on Bali to do being centrally located (yes, I totally lucked out on ease of access) and flexible to accommodate the five of us who are dotted along the scale of activities vs reading on the sun lounger for what makes up an ideal holiday.  Armed with emails full of recommendations and a little firsthand experience from me, we got stuck in.


Our villa was simply amazing. Right off the bat we were exceeding our expectations. Over 48 hours all five of us converged on Seminyak, some of us with two suitcases (ok, she had come via a previous week's holiday in Fiji) and some of us with carry on (always my personal challenge). Our days fell into a regular pattern: wake up early (jet lag from AU/NZ), walk along the beach in search of coffee, breakfast either at the villa (um, yes, personal chef - sigh) or at a cafe, reading in the sun and swimming, head off for a light lunch, some sort of activity/exploring, evening drinks at the villa before heading out for dinner.


Our home away from home


One item high on our agenda was shopping. There's a huge amount of wholesale manufacturing done in Bali (or Indonesia generally) ranging from clothing and leather goods to furniture. Our trusty recommendations included where to go to get handbags, clutches and shoes made. Often these shops have pre-made items to be purchased, but if you bring in a picture of what you want it's very easy to do. A few tips - bargain hard, organize collection for a day or two before you depart in case last minute adjustments need to be made.

The girls decided to do a day trip to Ubud. As I'd been before (read about it here), I met up with a friend who is based in Bali and went for a surfing lesson at the Rip Curl Academy. Having not touched a surf board for well over ten years (ok, maybe closer to 15...) I knew I wouldn't last long in the water. I was right - after an hour I was utterly exhausted and completely exhilarated. If only there was surf in Singapore... The friend who I was surfing with happens to be one of the world champions of Stand Up Paddle Boarding, and one look at her (yes, totally fit) and how easily she picked up surfing, I think I'm going to give it a go. Anyway, I digress.


Our beach


One of the highlights was our surprise hen's day for Katie. She's getting married in October in NZ, but as we are scattered over the world this was the one time we would all be together before the wedding - an opportunity too good to pass up. Knowing Katie wasn't really the 'order a stripper' kind of girl (thank god - trying to find one in Bali would have been interesting!!) we settled on a hen's breakfast, a cooking class and cocktails, all accompanied by Matieus, a rather large and sculptured wooden penis bottle opener. Matieus proved to be absolutely useless at his task (ok, I'm avoiding the obvious joke here) of opening bottles, but he did cause a moment of hilarity at the security bag check at Potato Head.

The cooking class was a brilliant way to learn about and indulge in Indonesia's incredible cuisine. It was rather too hands off for me (we didn't do much ourselves other than grinding paste, threading skewers and stirring woks) but the feast (literally, we were groaning) was delicious and made the whole thing worthwhile. We also came away with our own recipe book and glossary of Indonesian ingredients to recreate the masterpiece at home.


Before
During
After

One fabulous afternoon road trip we had was to Ulawatu via Padang Padang beach. We'd intended to go to the Mother Temple, but our driver (thankfully) pointed out we'd left our start way too late and our supposed two hour journey would take four...each way. We placed ourselves in his trusty hands and he took us on our own tour. Padang Padang Beach was made famous by Julia Roberts in Eat Pray Love – a tiny little beach down through a stone-stepped tunnel. After stopping for a quick dip and some delicious charred corn on the cob, we headed off to Ulawatu (both temple and surf haven). We quenched our thirst with beer and fresh coconut water at the Hard Rock Cafe – no restaurant chain, but a wooden beach bar literally perched on top of an isolated rocky outcrop where we had a perfect view of surfers catching wave after wave (and me silently despairing of ever being good enough to surf there). 


On the way to Padang Padang Beach
The Hard Rock Cafe, perched at the cliff edge
View from the Hard Rock
I have size envy...

Feeling refreshed (and inspired) we headed to the Ulawatu Temple as the sun started to dip in the sky. I was hoping to catch the sun set, but the resident monkeys are seriously aggressive - they actually chased us with bared teeth!


He looks harmless, for now...

Lone fisherman
Approaching sunset
Ulawatu Temple


Bali is the perfect place to go if you want a little bit of everything for everyone.  You can stick to the high end, drink decadent cocktails, shop till you drop and brunch like you would back home, or you can eat local, laze on the beach or explore the winding back streets.  You can jump in a car or on a motorbike and drive from the beach into the rice paddies in a few hours, or you can soak up the sun pool-side and ask the masseurs to come to you.  Or you can do it all!


Here are a few of my recommendations:


Sleep:


VILLA SURATI


This place is a little slice of peace amongst the hustle and bustle of the Seminyak Streets. It's off Jl. Double Six (so not right in Seminyak) but is a five minute walk to Double Six Beach (Cocoon, Ripcurl Surfing School, Warung Asia).  We started almost every day with a 20 minute walk down the beach towards Seminyak.

Jln Double 6, Legian, Bali 80361
Email: enquiries@villasurati.com
Website: www.villasurati.com


Villa Surati I


Eat:


High end

SARONG

If you're not on a 'high end' budget, make an exception for this place just once.  The food is incredible Asian fusion, the staff are the perfect level of attentive but discrete, it's been nominated among top five Asian restaurants, tipped by Conde Naste... do you need any other reasons?  Book ahead a week in advance and don't miss the chicken betel leaf with flat leaf coriander, lime leaf and roasted chili capsicum relish - amazing!


Jalan Petitenget, Kerobokan Kelod, Indonesia
+62 361 737809



Mid range


MOJO'S FLYING BURRITOS


Mojo's can be hard to find but it's worth the effort.  Incredibly laid back, this tiny joint can offer you a brief respite from Indonesian food (if you need it).  I recommend building your own burrito - delicious.

Jl Petitenget ,Gang Prana, Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia



  
Build your own burrito


ZULA VEGETARIAN PARADISE

The raw chocolate brownie with coconut ice cream is not to be missed

Jl Dhyana Pura 5, Seminyak

Heaven by the spoonful

NAUGHTY NURIS

This place oozes attitude.  Take your patience along with you - you may have to queue, but it is so worth it.  Don't be tempted by anything else on the menu, order the ribs.  They're what Naughty Nuris is famous for!

Jalan Batubelig, 41 (Kerobokan Kelod, Kuta, Bali)
+62 361 847 6722






Low end


WARUNG ASIA


Our trusty local, just down the road from our villa.  Cheap, cheerful and quick.  
50m down from Jalan Arjuna intersection on Jalan Werkudara, tucked down a small laneway.  Look for the signs on Jalan Arjuna.


Lemongrass and ginger tea
Satay ayam
Gado gado - my favourite!


CABE RAWIT

We stumbled across this this place in a haze of hunger half way through our shopping marathon.  We weren't expecting much, but this place packs a punch.  The food was delicious!

Jalan Kuntil 1 No. 7, Seminyak






Don't forget fresh coconuts and char grilled corn on the cob from any number of street vendors!









Brunch


CAFE ZUCCHINI


You could come here for breakfast, lunch or dinner (we nearly did all three!) or pop in and rest your weary dusty feet for an icy fresh fruit smoothie.

Jl Laksmana 37, Seminyak, Bali
+62 361 736633 ‎


  




GROCER & GRIND

Step into Grocery & Grind and you could be in any fabulous cafe in New Zealand (or Australia). Stop here for coffee at least, and if you're feeling hungry try the porridge or a delicious smoothie.


Jl. Kayu Jati No.3 Petitenget, Seminyak, Bali
+62 361 730418






Drink:


Apart from anywhere serving cold Bintan, check out these places.

POTATO HEAD

Sip amazing cocktails reclined on full sized day beds scattered around the pool.  Be warned, the cocktail list is extensive - good luck on making a decision!


Jl. Petitenget Seminyak Kuta Badung Bali, Indonesia
+62 361 737979


The perfect venue for evening cocktails perched right above the beach.  You'd probably need to book for the restaurant, but then you'd miss the fabulous view.  Try to get a seat at the very edge and order from the bar menu - the pizzas are really good.


Jalan Hotel The Oberoi  Indonesia
+62 361 736969

Just down the road from our villa, Cocoon is a great place to relax with a few tapas and and G&T.

Jl. Double Six, Blue Ocean Terrace Seminyak,Kuta  80361, Indonesia
+62 361 731266





Do:


RIPCURL SCHOOL OF SURF


Surfing lessons


Day trip to Padang Padang / Uluwatu – ask your villa/hotel to organise a driver


ANIKA GUEST HOUSE


Balinese Cooking Class
Jalan Elang No. 3, Komplek Burung, Kuta, Tuban
Ph: +62 361 766133
http://cookingclass.anikaguesthouse.com


Shop:


Bali has fabulous shopping because so many labels are manufactured there.  By far the best street for shopping in Bali is Jalan Kayu Aya / Jalan Laksmana (same same).  You won't find a huge amount if you're a bargain basement shopper - prices are similar to Singapore or a bit cheaper than New Zealand but there's an incredible variety.  You'll find casual cottons, fine silks, kids clothes, leather goods... Give yourself the whole day, start with brunch at Grocer & Grind, work your way up to Cafe Zucchini for an icy smoothie or a coffee and rest your weary feet at the Corner Store for a cold drink and a snack.


Don't miss SKS and Prisoners of St Petersburg, both near the Corner Store end of the street.


LISAS


Come here for anything leather - bags, shoes, jackets, wallets.  They have a pretty good ready made selection, but they can whip anything up for you from a picture.  The more details you can give them, the better the finished product will be. 


Jl. Werkudara 17-18-19, Legian Kaja, Kuta, Bali
+62 87 862 106 811


AURA

Another great selection of ready made shoes, bags, belts, plus made to order.  I didn't get anything made here, but there were quite a few satisfied customers walking out with their goodies while I was um-ing and ah-ing over cute mouse purses and clutches.

Jl. Laksamana (Oberoi) No 21, Seminyak, Bali
+62 361 737 127

2 comments:

  1. Bali is heaven for many people and obviously for me also.Will be planning Bali holidays very soon with Triphobo..
    Waiting for some more articles about Bali and Maldives both..

    ReplyDelete
  2. very good review, please come and enjoy bali again

    ReplyDelete